May 16
2010

Diaper bag with a divider

I’m pregnant, and I recently bought a fancy-pants designer diaper bag that’s compact and looks like a purse. But, really, who am I trying to kid? I could maybe fit the contents of my purse in there, but with baby stuff, too? No way. I mean, every day when I walk into work I have a tote bag, a purse and a lunch cooler that looks like a purse (and they are all in different patterns, so I look like some sort of mismatched hobo). Add a baby’s needs to this, and I had to get serious and accept the fact that I’m going to need something bigger. Much bigger.

I set off on a quest to make the most useful diaper bag I could. I had made some for friends before, but I really wanted a center divider. You can carry your stuff and baby’s stuff, all in one bag. It’s a biggun, measuring about 19″ long, 12″ tall and 6″ wide.I completely redesigned and came up with this one. I’ll admit, I was winging it and wondered if somewhere I’d realize I’d made some fatal miscalculation on how it would all come together. But guess what? It came together perfectly. Now I’m going to walk you through the same project.What’s exciting about this bag? It’s full of useful surprises! It’s got a divider inside and lots of pockets, including some with elastic that pull out, which are great for bottles.

This is a complicated bag, but I wouldn’t say you have to be a really experienced sewer to make it. You just need some patience and time. If you’ve ever wondered how to put a divider in a bag, I’ll walk you through that. This bag also has a lot of body, so it stands up on its own. As always, if you need help or don’t understand something in my instructions, please contact me using the e-mail link in the “contact” page to the right.

Share your bag!

NOTE: This is one of our more popular projects. If you make it, please share pictures with us on our Flickr page! Also, submit anything made with fabrics from Warehouse Fabrics Inc. to our gallery page. Simply click “Add Photo to Gallery” just above the pictures.

Adding a zipper

NOTE #2: Many have asked about adding a zipper to this bag. I eventually did another bag tutorial with a recessed zipper. If you’d like to add a zipper to this bag, I’d recommend that method. Please visit this post.

Supplies

(Click fabrics for direct links for purchase at Warehouse Fabrics Inc.)

Sundeck black – ODSUKBLK	Elizabeth black/yellow – ELHBLW	Fancy black/yellow – FAYBLW	Melrose black/yellow – MEEBLW
	Strap hardware	Stiff interfacing	Fusible fleece
Cord	1/4″ elastic
I used a yard each of the black and the Elizabeth. I used half a yard each of the Melrose and Fancy. I used about 66 inches of piping cord, 4 purse strap hardware squares, 1 magnetic snap, 2 yards of fusible fleece and 2.5 yards of Craft Fuse interfacing. I would guess that I used about 30″ of elastic, but I actually was using up scraps.

The pattern

I didn’t make a downloadable pattern this time because all of the pieces are rectangles. Just draw pieces to these dimensions. (Yep. There’s a lot of cutting!) (numbers are width x height, in case you are using a directional print)Bag front/back, exterior and interior:

20″x13″

cut 2 main fabric (in my case, black)

cut 2 lining fabric #1

cut 2 fusible fleece

cut 2 interfacing (I used Craft Fuse)

Bag sides, exterior:

7″x13″

cut 2 main fabric

cut 2 fusible fleece

cut 2 interfacing (I used Craft Fuse)

Bag bottom, exterior:

20″x7″

cut 1 main fabric

cut 1 fusible fleece

cut 1 interfacing (I used Craft Fuse)

Bag sides, interior:

4″x13″

cut 4 lining fabric #1

Bag bottom, interior:

20″x4″

cut 2 lining fabric #1

Divider, interior:

20″x10.5″

cut 2 lining fabric #2

cut 2 interfacing

Exterior pockets:

20″x8.5″

cut 4 lining fabric #1

Straight pocket, interior:

20″x6″

cut 2 lining fabric #3

Long elastic pocket, interior:

28″x6″

cut 2 lining fabric #3

Side elastic pockets, interior:

6.5″x6″

cut 4 lining fabric #3

Straps (makes 2):

4″x30″

cut 2 main fabric

Strap tabs (makes 4):

4″x5″

cut 4 main fabric

Piping

1.5″x 21″

cut 3 lining fabric #3

Note: There is a piping tutorial here, but in this particular case I did not cut on the bias. I just cut along the grain line. I don’t need my piping to hug any curves in this particular case, so non-bias piping is fine.

1/2″ seam allowances throughout

The process


Fuse interfacing to the two exterior side and front pieces, plus the exterior bottom (left). Not all pieces are shown here. Then fuse fleece on top of the interfacing (right). In my example, all of my exterior pieces are solid black. So, each piece of the exterior bag is fabric plus interfacing plus fleece.

You’ll make two straps according to the directions in the Non-Turn Strap Tutorial, but first press under a quarter-inch on each end so you have no raw edges when all is said and done (left). Then make three 22″ pieces of piping according to the Piping Tutorial. Please note that unlike in the tutorial, I did not cut these strips on the bias. It really wasn’t necessary since I’m not going to be hugging any curves (right).

NOTE: In this photo above, you are looking at my pocket pieces for the exterior. I have used a piece of solid black for one side and a piece of the print for the other. With raw edges together, sew the piping to one long edge of an outer pocket piece (left). You want the piping to end up 1/2″ away from the raw edge. Sew the other outer pocket piece over that, sandwiching the piping in between (right). This is much easier with a piping foot, but you can also use a zipper foot. Just try to get as close to the piping as possible.
	I’ve opened up my piping sandwich, and this is what I have. Now press so that the wrong sides of those fabrics are together and the piping is at the top. You can see that one side of my pocket is black, one is the print.

In these photos, I’ve laid my outer pockets on top of my other front pieces. In one photo I have the black side of the pocket showing, in the other I have the printed side. I am trying to decide which I want to have facing out. You see, I have a tendency to make lots of bags with bold prints, but then I spend a lot of time lamenting the fact that I don’t have a solid black purse or bag. So I promised myself that for this bag, the exterior would be primarily black. The fun would be on the inside, right? The pocket piping would give you a hint of the exciting stuff in the interior. I was going to arrange the outer pockets as in the photo on the left. Except then the prints got to me. WHAT DO I DO!?! Well, if you knew me at all, you wouldn’t even be asking that question.
	So the print won. And I’m sure glad it did. I’m telling you, the bag is so much cuter this way! In this picture, I’ve basted the pocket onto the front piece by sewing along the sides and bottom ONLY. I’ve also sewn a line down the center of the pocket through all layers of the pocket and exterior bag piece to create two pockets of equal size.
	Now sew the exterior bottom piece to the side pieces. In this picture, the white is the back side of the bottom piece. I’ve sewn through the bottom, the pocket and the main bag piece. Stop about 1/2″ from each end to leave room for other seams in a few minutes.
	This is the exterior bag, laid flat, without the sides. #1 is the exterior front with pocket, #2 is the bottom of the bag and #3 is the exterior back with pocket (of course, front and back are the same in this case).
	This is the bag laid flat. I hope the labeling helps you understand what you’re viewing. I’ve attached the exterior sides to the front panel. The tops of the pieces should line up exactly. Due to seam allowances, the sides will extend past the bottom of the front piece. This will give you seam allowance for sewing it to the bottom piece in a minute.
	But before you sew the bottom piece to the side piece, sew the other side of the side piece to the back piece. Did that make any sense!? Now you’ve got a nice box, and the only thing that’s open is the top and the two side pieces where they meet the base of the bag.
	Now you’ll sew that bottom seam where the base of the bag and the sides of the bag come together. It can get bulky, but try to sew from one existing side seam to the next. If you go from raw edge to raw edge, you won’t get as nice of corners.
	Turn your bag right-side out, and your exterior is done, except for straps! Admire for a few minutes, patting yourself on the back for choosing the printed side of the pockets. Good choice! So what if you’ll clash with practically everything you wear?
	Alright, that’s enough. Back to work. It’s time for the interior. We’ll start with the divider. Apply fusible interfacing to each divider piece. Sew the piping on and sew the pieces together just like you did for the exterior pocket. The sides and bottom will remain raw edges.

Because of the divider, instead of having one bag bottom piece like on the exterior, we’ll have two, one on each side of the divider. Sandwich the bottom (raw) edge of the divider between the two interior bottom pieces and sew. Press open. Now your only raw edges on the divider are along the sides.
	Next up is the elastic pocket. I wanted pockets that could hold fairly large objects, like bottles, securely. Right sides together, place the long elastic pocket pieces together and sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along one long end. Turn right-side out and press.
	Sew a casing for the elastic. I sewed mine about 1/2″ away from the finished edge.
	using a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing.

You’ll gather it up some (left), then secure one end with some stitches (center). Gather from the free end until the elastic part is the same width as the interior front panel (right). Then secure the other side of the elastic with stitches.

The bottom of the elastic pocket is still much bigger than the interior front panel. So what do you do? There are two options. One is to make little folds, like pleats, and just sew it down (left). The other I’ll show a few steps below. After basting the raw edges of the pocket to the interior front panel, make a few divider pockets so that it’s not just one huge, long pocket (right).

Now we’ll make the nonelastic pocket for the other side of the interior. Place these pocket pieces right side together and sew along one long edge. Turn and press. Then top-stitch a little ways from the finished edge (left). Pin to the bottom edge of the interior back (again, it’s the same as the “front” but I’m just trying to differentiate the pieces) and baste around the raw edges. Stitch some dividing lines in. I like to make one that’s about the size of a pen, which I’m demonstrating with my finger, as a real pen would have required me to reach about 18 inches.

OK, back to the side with the elastic pockets: On this side (what I’ve referred to as the “front”), the interior sides of the bag will have elastic pockets, too. On the other side, I did not add pockets to the sides of the bag. Do these little pockets the same way you did the big one. Here, I’ve demonstrated an alternative way to deal with the bottom of the pocket. Instead of pleating it roughly, I’ve sewn gathering stitches and gathered it (left). Baste it in place (right).

Sew your front and back pieces to the bottom pieces. The pictures may be confusing, but it’s really just the bag laid flat. At left, I’m showing you the “interior back,” with the dividing pocket (dots) flipped the other way. At right, I’m showing you the “interior front” with the divider (dots) flipped up. So in the right photo, the divider is covering the nonelastic pockets. Confused?

What? You’re still here? Congratulations for sticking with me! Thanks for making all of this work on my part worthwhile! Now, let’s sew the sides of the interior in. Sew the pocketless side pieces to the sides of the “interior back.” Remember what I said above about lining up the edges of the tops of the pieces and that you’ll have a bit of hangover at the bottom (left). PLEASE NOTE: on one of these edges, leave a large section unstitched for turning later (back stitch at each edge of this hole for reinforcement later). In the left-hand picture, I’ve left the left side seam mostly open. That was a lot of “lefts” in one sentence.Do the same for the elastic pocket side, but don’t leave a seam open (right).

Now sew the bottom pieces to the side pieces. You still haven’t connected the side pieces to the interior divider. This is a different order than how we did the exterior, but just go with me here. Stop at the seam line, so you have about 1/2″ unsewn (center). This is what it will look like (right). That edge on the right will connect with the interior divider in a minute.

	On either side, sandwich the interior divider between the raw edges of the side pieces, right sides together.
	Sew.
	It worked! I was getting kind of nervous at this point that something wasn’t going to work out for me here. But it did. I am exuding so much confidence with this tutorial that I’m sure you never even noticed I was winging this, right? I mean, other than the fact that I keep pointing that out.
	Attach the magnetic snaps using the Magnetic Snap Tutorial. Mark a dot halfway across the interior front and back pieces and 1-1/4″ down from the raw top edge.
	Make four strap tab pieces in the same manner you made the straps themselves, only you don’t need to worry about raw edges. The three pieces at the top are finished. The one at the bottom shows you how the raw edges are brought to the center, then you fold that in half and press.
	Decide how far in from each edge you want your straps and mark. Fold each tab in half and slide a square ring into the fold. Sew the tabs onto the exterior of the bag with raw edges together and rings hanging down. Sew within the 1/2″ seam allowance so you don’t see this stitching later.
	With the exterior of the bag right-side out and the interior inside out, slide the exterior inside the interior on the side with the open edge.

	Line up side seams and pin all the way around. Sew 1/2″ from top edge. I prefer to sew from the side with all of the fleece and interfacing because it tends to feed more evenly. In other words, fleece side up, noninterfaced side down.
	Turn the whole bag through this hole. It seems impossible, but if you go slow, you’ll have no trouble. Press the top edge and top-stitch around it to secure lining inside of bag.Sew the hole closed. I just pin it shut, turning in the seam allowances, and top stitch. You can also slip stitch by hand for a less-noticeable finish.

	We’re almost done! On the straps, mark 1-1/4″ from each finished edge.
	Loop through the rings so that the mark you just made is on the fold. Sew close to edge to secure. YOU’RE FINISHED! If you think that took you a long time, try documenting and creating this tutorial! Phew! I hope you give it a try. It takes some work, but it’s way cuter than most store-bought diaper bags, and you can choose any prints you like!

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Categorized: Accessories, Baby & Kids

Tagged: bag, bag with divider, diaper bag, sewing, sewing tutorial, tutorial

Robyn

Hi Alika! Yes, right sides together, then pull through the hole. So in the photo, the “outer” bag is inside of the lining for that step. the lining is sort of whitish on the outside because that’s the wrong side of the fabric, but there is no interfacing or fleece on it. All that stuff is only on the inside of the “outer” bag. Feel free to contact me through the contact form on the blog if you need further help. I’m glad to walk you through it if this didn’t clarify for you.
Robyn
Reese

Hi! I absolutely love this bag! However I think I may have done something wrong. At the end my seems to be too loose inside (so I think the inside is too long), I think that is a measurement error on my part. But the bag is not sitting correctly at the top, where you can see a good amount of the interrior fabric on the outside. Any idea of how to fix this? I trimmed back the extra fabric after stitching since I think it was because of the extra fleece and interfacing on the one side and I have tried ironing it so it folds where the two fabrics meet but it doesn’t seem to be working. Any advice? I wanted to have an idea what to do before pulling the bag apart to fix it. Thanks!
Robyn

Reese,
I am not 100% sure what you mean. Is the inside rolling toward the outside at the top? Sometimes I find that just pressing it well and then top-stitching in place takes care of that. Do you think that will work or is it something worse than that? Maybe you could send a photo?
Reese

Ahhh….I missed the top stitching. I am still going to take it apart to shorten the inside fabric since thats too long but I think the top stitch should fix it. I love this bag though, I was iin Babys R Us the other day and they have nothing close to this bag
Kaylee

I love this tutorial! My first child’s diaper had magnetic closures, and I wish it had a zipper instead. Do you have any suggestions for making a zipper closure for the top of this bag?
Robyn

Kaylee,
Doing a regular zipper would really complicate this bag. Logistically, I haven’t worked through that one yet. Because this bag is so complicated, I probably won’t be making another version of it anytime soon, but I think I’ll address some bag zippers in the near future.
If you go back through the older comments on this post, there are a few between me and “Cheryl” that sort of address a type of zipper on this bag, but it may not be the best explanation on my part. Maybe take a look and see if it makes any sense to you?
Robyn
Melissa

I just made this bag today! Thank you for the tutorial.
Katie

I’m so excited to make this – I was about to sit down and make my own pattern for a diaper bag (and I have NO CLUE how to do that) because I couldn’t find any online that I liked – then I found this! I might attempt to put a zipper on top, not sure yet. One question I have though is do you have to use strap tabs and then attach the straps or can you just sew the strap right onto the bag?
Robyn

Hi Katie,
You can skip the tabs and the metal rings and just put the straps right onto the bag. Just make sure that they straps will be long enough – you might want to add a few inches to them if you forgo the tabs and rings. Please share your final results with us!
Robyn
Katherine

Just finished this last night! As a bag-making veteran this was challenging enough to stay interesting but simple enough to be enjoyable. I used ripstop nylon (with sew-in interfacing) for the interior since it was recommended that I make the inside water-resistant and I changed up the magnetic snap for a button and loop closure. Overall very impressive results, I am in awe of your ability to wing this and have it turn out so beautifully. I am sure my sister-in-law will love this

One suggestion – could you include the lengths of elastic that you cut, especially for the long pocket? I think that would help immensely with the construction of the interior.

Thanks for posting such a fantastic tutorial!
Robyn

Thanks for your feedback, Katherine. It’s a great idea to post elastic lengths — if I ever get around to making another one of these! I’ll definitely do that if I make another one. Meanwhile, if any readers want to share the lengths they used, I can post them.
I’d love to see your bag!
Robyn
Chelsea

I really like this bag. Though, I’m wondering if it would be difficult to make it a little smaller…like 15″ instead of 19. What would I change to do that?
Robyn

Chelsea,
You would have to change all of the pieces that run the width of the bag, including the interior divider and the pockets. So when you’re making your pattern pieces, just subtract the same amount from each piece. I think that should work fine.
Robyn
Chelsea

I finished this bag tonight. It was my first sewing project in over 10 years. I was a little overwhelmed at first, but it turned out great. Thanks for the step by step directions and pictures! I did end up making it about 15″ across instead of 19″. I’m glad it worked out. I also added padding to the straps, so they are more comfortable. It was my husbands idea . I’ll try to attach some pictures.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151590903323289&set=a.10151590895183289.600467.740073288&type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151590903373289&set=a.10151590895183289.600467.740073288&type=1&theater
Robyn

Thanks for sharing your pictures, Chelsea! Your bag looks great. I think it was a nice idea to shrink it up some. The full size bag is pretty big for everyday use.
Tiffany

Hi,

I just finished mine this morning, and I love it. Thanks so much for including it! We’re expecting our first in June, and I’m loving that I can make my own bag and then use extra fabric for coordinating bibs, burb clothes, nursing cover, etc. I already made a coordinating changing mat from a tutorial here: http://www.madebymarzipan.com/?x=3285

A couple notes on the bag: I added a clasp for keys and a cell phone pocket into the seam b/w the inside and outside (like where you sew the straps) so they would be handy, and I think that will be great. The thick interfacing gave me fits though. I actually managed to bend a needle – fortunately I had extras. Like someone above, my “insides” were showing too much at the top, so I topstitched it down, and that took care of it (though I couldn’t even get my needle through on one corner). I was thinking, if I ever do this again, I’ll probably cut the interfacing 1 inch shorter in each dimension and then center it on the fabric so it doesn’t get into the seam allowance. Do you think that will work ok? I enjoy the structure it gives the bag, but it makes the execution so much less enjoyable.
Robyn

Tiffany, I think it’s a fine idea to just trim down the interfacing a bit! Can we see a pic?
Dana

I made this bag for my bestfriends baby shower. Everyone thought I bought it! Beautifully done and well written instructions. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! Now I have three more to make!
Robyn

So glad it turned out well, Dana! Thanks for stopping by and letting us know!
Robyn
Lori

I first saw this bag back in June when we had our 3rd child and I fell in love with it. I tried to find something this large in the stores and couldn’t so I finally made it and I LOVE it! I made some changes. I have 3 kids, the oldest 4 so I added more pockets. Also, I added a long pocket on the one side of the divider for books and Sunday school papers and elastic bands on the other side to hold diapers and wipes upright. I also added a zipper on the top since I often throw my bags on to my back when I bend over to pick up one of the kids and things always fall out. My inside seemed too large so I hand stitched it seam to seam so you don’t see the stitching and it looks much better now.
Thank you so much for this tutorial, it was very easy to follow and modify!
Robyn

Thanks for coming back and letting us know about your bag, Lori!
Melynda

I am a self taught “beginner” and want to try this. Is it possible to make this bag without the divider?
Robyn

Melynda,
Sure, you can do it without a divider. Instead, cut the lining “side” and “bottom” pieces with the pattern pieces for the outer bag. When you cut the pockets for the side pieces of the lining (if you choose to do them), you’ll need to make them bigger. I’d say about twice the width of the side piece. Complete the first part of the tutorial where you construct the outer bag. Then skip the steps about making the divider and pick up with the step that begins, “Next up is the elastic pocket.” There will be other steps in assembling the bag that you’ll skip or alter because they have to do with the divider. If you’re looking for just a basic bag to make, we’ve got some other options on our blog, as well, that may be easier for you.
http://www.facebook.com/sugarspicechemx Jamie Cochran

How do I post pictures? I embroidered on one of the outside pockets. Also, even with the top stitch, the insides were a titch long (like the other comments have said). Other than that, I am very pleased with this pattern. 4.75 stars!
Robyn

Hi Jamie,
Sorry for the delay in response. We just implemented a new commenting system and it didn’t notify me of new comments.
Anyway, as far as posting pictures, I’m not sure that you can here in the comments, but you can:
1. Put it on our Flickr page (link at right side of blog)
2. Email it to me (blog@warehousefabricsinc.com)
I’d love to see it!
Robyn
Pingback: Free Diaper Bag Sewing Tutorial
http://www.facebook.com/Kate.Aysel Kate Taylor

Finished this bag for my cousin. It was so easy and I’ve already had people ask me to make bags for them! I used 45″ wide fabric, I found I needed 1.5yds for the main fabric.
http://www.facebook.com/ashley.warren.96 Ashley Brokaw

I love love love this tutorial!!! Thank you so much!!! I can’t wait to use my bag when our little girl is born! This was so fun to do! Once I stated I couldn’t stop thanks again!!! http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=590168542190&set=a.571798490920.2032441.183900049&type=1&theater
Guest

Here’s my diaper bag
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

Ashley, I love the army touch that you added! It’s really great. Thanks for sharing your bag with us! Congrats on your little one. I can’t believe I was pregnant when I made this tutorial and now my kid is 2-1/2!
disqus_0aqXc28n3D

Thank you for this tutorial. Will be trying it today. ! Just what I was looking for!!!
Aileen in Flroida
Pingback: Pinned Tutorial- Diaper bag with a divider | The Handmade Biz
michad2001@sbcglobal.net

Thank you so much for your tutorial!! I just finished making this for my daughter who is due with my first grandbaby any day now! I have just recently started sewing, and you made this very easy to follow. Again, thank you!!!
Michelle in Oklahoma
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

Sorry for the late reply — Hope it worked out for you!
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

Thanks for your note — We’d love to see a picture!
Amanda

The first one I made, it has a zippered pocket inside as well. Have made 1 since this one and will be starting another one tonight. Thanks so much for this awesome bag.
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

The fabric combination is beautiful. Thanks for sharing the photo!
http://www.facebook.com/teresa.bachtold Teresa Bachtold

I love this tutorial; I was very impressed with how the bag turned out. It is HUGE & very practical & sturdy. I changed the handle design & added outside & inside pockets.
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

Way to go! It’s awesome when people can make adjustments that make it just right for them. Thanks for your comment!
Katie

has anyone tried this without the fleece? would the interfacing be enough?
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

Katie,

You could make it without, but it won’t have as much body. It’s a pretty big bag and it would probably be rather floppy.
Robyn
Lyz

So do you have any recommendations on washing?
Lyz

I am working on one right now for a friends baby shower. I will post a pic when I am done but it is for an AF family and I am making it out of AF ABU uniform.
Leslie A Piggott

Thanks for the tutorial! I uploaded my photos to the flickr page.
http://warehousefabricsinc.com/ Warehouse Fabrics In.

I always find that it’s best to spot clean. I know that’s hard when babies are involved! I have machine washed bags when necessary, but they never look as good as they did before.
Would love to see a pic when you’re done!
Brittany

I am so excited to do this, I just finished my best friend’s baby blanket yesterday and I am making her diaper bag in accordance with blanket. I am doing it in a wonderful owl fabric I found. I really think it is going to be really fancy