March 2012

I think it’s time to discuss interfacing. Why? Well, for two reasons. 1) If you’re going to sew, you need it, and, 2) My sewing machine is in the shop and my backup is smarter than I am broken, so I can’t sew anything for this weekend’s blog post. Well, then, it’s the perfect time for this post.

If you’ve ever perused interfacing, you know there are many types to choose from. And you probably felt confused, at least in the beginning.

What is it?

Interfacing is an extra layer added to your sewing project to add stability and structure. It also aids with durability in some areas that will face high wear and tear, such as buttonholes. It’s usually white, but you can find a few kinds in black.

Things to consider

1. Knit vs. woven vs. neither

Knit and woven are pretty self-explanatory. But what is nonwoven? It’s an interfacing made of synthetic fibers bonded (or felted) together.

Most of the interfacing I’ve used is nonwoven bonded cheap stuff. This will work for many of your projects, but if you’re making a fine garment, you might want to invest in something better. It varies from lightweight to heavy. Knit interfacing is more drapeable and tends to be lightweight. It’s great for knit fabrics but can also be used on lightweight woven fabrics. I used a nice fusible woven in a bag recently and loved it. It felt just like fabric and had a great quality. It would be a little heavy for some applications, though.

2. Fusible vs. nonfusible

Fusible interfacing has an adhesive backing in the form of little dots on one side. You adhere it straight to your fabric using your iron. Most types require steam, but some use a dry iron. Interfacing is rolled onto the bolt along with a long strip of paper instructions. When your interfacing is cut, you’ll also get some of the paper instructions, which will give you important tips about fusing it to your fabric.

When steam-fusing, it helps to set your iron to high steam AND use a damp pressing cloth. I just use a damp washcloth. Place your cloth between the fabric/interfacing and the iron and press, creating lots o’ steam. I used to use a lot of Craft Fuse interfacing for bag-making, and that requires a dry heat to fuse, so you simply turn the steam off on your iron and press directly on the fabric/interfacing with high heat. For the best bond, repeat this step on both sides of the fabric.

3. Light vs. heavy

Interfacing come in all different weights and you can use it for all different purposes. Featherweights are great for lightweight fabrics that you use for garments. Heavyweights are for things that really need stability, like bags.

Uses

Now you know there are many options, so you just need to find the right interfacing for the job. Sometimes a pattern will recommend a type. If it doesn’t, start by considering what you’re making. If you’re making a purse, you’ll want it to be fairly sturdy. You don’t want some wimpy, drapey interfacing that will collapse upon itself. I used to make a lot of bags, and I usually used Craft Fuse, which is a really cheap but fairly stiff fusible. If you’ve made an Amy Butler bag, she has you use many layers of interfacing, usually including Peltex, which is pretty pricey but incredibly thick and stiff. It’s actually hard to sew, but you won’t have a droopy bag, that’s for sure!

For clothing, examine the fabric you are using. A lightweight cotton would use a very light interfacing, and it’s really only used in places like collars and facings. You’re certainly not using it throughout. If you’re using a heavier fabric, say, making a jacket, you’ll pick a slightly heavier interfacing.

But when do you choose fusible? Or, rather, why wouldn’t you? Isn’t it easier to just stick it to the fabric than to have to baste it onto each piece? Some fabrics will pucker or bubble when fused. Very delicate fabrics are better served by using a baste-in interfacing instead of a fusible. I have experienced this effect when using quilting cotton to make a bag and fusing heavy Craft Fuse to it. The fabric itself wasn’t ruined, but the fusing just made it look bad. Also, fusing can require high heat, and many fabrics can’t handle that.

Sheer fabrics

What if you’re making something out of a sheer fabric (like a light jacket) and some areas need a bit more body? Use a layer of organza or another layer of the fabric you are using for your project. It will add stability but still look nice.

Preshrinking your interfacing

I admit. I am lazy. I never do this. Maybe that’s why I’ve made a lot of stuff that sucks. Therefore, I recommend that you do preshrink your interfacing on any project you care about. Often, it’s recommended that you place it in a tub of warm water and let it sit, then roll in a towel and air dry. That pretty much explains why I never do it. That would require that I wash a bathroom sink.

If you’re making something that you don’t plan to wash/dry, like a bag, I wouldn’t worry about it. If you’re making a garment with expensive fabric, I would.

Tips

• Interfacing should generally be lighter weight than your fabric.
• Drape both over your hand or arm to see the effect when you are choosing your interfacing.
• Preshrink! Don’t be like me.
• Go for quality when you can afford it, or at least when you are making something from expensive fabric and that will take a lot of time to sew. You don’t want to set yourself up for disappointment.